Forget St Tropez! This Gorgeous Unspoiled Island Is Where French Locals Will Be Going This Summer

It’s summer in France once again, and like every other summer that preceded it, tourists will be flocking en masse to St Tropez. Instagrammable pastel-hue buildings, $12 gelatos, and sunset parties at Nikki Beach… how original.

We’re Travel Off Path, your leading independent travel news source, unveiling Europe’s best-kept secrets. As we’ve learned from our travel journaling over the years, the most authentic and incredible destinations are often the ones locals frequent.

For the French, that’s Île de Ré, an island off the country’s west coast, over on the Atlantic side, home to only about 17,000 inhabitants, and the kind of unspoiled culture you don’t get in the French Riviera:

Is Île de Ré France’s Best-Kept Secret?

According to a new study conducted by Elabe, a well-reputed polling and consulting firm in France, Île de Ré is the one destination French people ‘dream about visiting the most’ this summer, surpassing both Côte d’Azur and Corsica.

Can you blame them?

At only 19 miles long and 3.1 miles wide at its widest point, Île de Ré is a historic coastal community famous in France for its paradisaical sandy beaches, quaint fishing villages that haven’t changed in the slightest over the past 150–200 years, and lush nature.

A UNESCO-Listed Capital

The main attraction on the island is its capital, and largest settlement, Saint-Martin-de-Ré, a beautiful port town ringed by defensive walls, and peppered with laid-back cafés, family-owned boulangeries, and heritage homes.

Its defensive system and well-preserved 17th-century townscape form a UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Vauban fortifications, and there is no doubt Saint-Martin-de-Ré is a must-see for visitors to the island.

As pleasant to stroll as it is photogenic, Saint-Martin’s harbor houses several affordable eateries, such as Le Belem, where you can gorge on moules-frites and freshly-caught fish, or Crêperie La Sarrasine, which serves the best ham-and-cheese galettes in town, all at affordable prices.

Delicious French Food At Affordable Prices

On average, a sit-down meal at one of those no-frills, downtown brasseries frequented by locals will set you back $14–$20, while a more elaborate, 3-course dinner with harbor views averages $45.

Prices can certainly vary, especially in the high season when they tend to go up, but as you can check for yourself on Tripadvisor, it’s almost a consensus among visitors that Île de Ré is on the cheaper side compared to other touristy French holiday spots.

It’s no wonder the French themselves come here instead of Saint Tropez!

On the other hand, if you’re coming for a prolonged weekend, which we highly recommend you do as there’s truly so much to see beyond just Saint-Martin—we’ll get to that shortly—there are guesthouses and B&Bs starting from only $85 per person (for 2 adults).

What To See In Ré Outside Saint-Martin

If you’re wondering what else is there to see on Ré beyond its picture-perfect capital, you should know 62 miles of coastline, old lighthouses, and scenic biking paths leading to untouched nature reserves await discovery.

Historic Lighthouses

Speaking of lighthouses, the Phare des Baleines is probably the top spot for catching the sunset anywhere on Ré.

Occupying the western tip of the island, it’s open for visitors to climb—if 257 steps don’t put you off—and it offers sweeping views of the azure sea.

Salt Marshes

The island is equally popular for its salt marshes as it is for its Atlantic nature, and tourists are welcome to visit the Écomusée du Marais Salant, a museum dedicated to the centuries-old salt production and the islander life, near Loix, in the north.

Quaint Fishing Villages

For a taste of local life, away from the ever-busy St-Martin, check out Ars-en-Ré, voted one of the most beautiful villages in France, with its iconic black-and-white church spire (historically used by sailors as a navigation landmark), and quaint marina.

Our personal favorite, however, has to be La Flotte: characterized by its signature off-white stone houses with green shutters anchored by the port, and its medieval-style farmers’ market, open every day from 7:30 AM to 1:00 PM, it feels like St-Martin’s compact, even more peaceful small sister.

Oh, and most travel publications usually won’t tell you this, but you can even visit the ruins of a medieval abbey near La Flotte, at Abbaye des Châteliers.

Gorgeous Atlantic Beaches

Of course, one of the primary reasons why the French drive all the way to Ré in summer is its largely deserted, unruffled sandy beaches.

From Le Bois-Plage to La Conche des Baleines, there are several options catering to every traveler, whether you prefer them completely undeveloped or busier areas with more amenities—just keep in mind this is no ‘St Trop‘, so none of the exclusive beach clubs.

The beach closest to the lighthouse is the liveliest one on the island, while the northeastern side, near Loix, and particularly Rivedoux-Plage, is quieter.

If you’re the adventurous kind, and you’ve brought a bike with you, you can even set out on the popular La Vélodyssée cycling route, which loops around the entire coast, visiting tiny fishing villages, secret, unmarked coves, and other stunning beaches.

Just keep in mind this is the Atlantic, not the Mediterranean: the water can be freezing cold regardless of how warm it is on a summer day!

How To Get To The Island If You’re Visiting France This Summer

The island lies just off the coastline from La Rochelle, yet another charming medieval gem we’ve written extensively about here, and it can be easily accessed via the Pont de l’île de Ré, a bridge that connects it to the mainland.

Driving nonstop from Paris to the Ré access point takes just under 5 hours, and it’s an even shorter 1 hr 41 minutes drive from Nantes. As you can see, this is no remote island in the middle of the Atlantic that can only be reached via a long boat crossing.

It’s perfectly accessible! The shocking part is that very few international tourists are coming:

It is among France’s less-visited destinations, with under 3 million visitors recorded per year, and 81% of those being French back in 2019. In other words, very few étrangers—that’s French for obnoxious, beret-clad, baguette-in-hand Instagrammers, ha!—are coming here.

This helps keep Ré authentic, and undeniably française through and through.